![]() She then melts brown sugar and butter into a bubbly caramel fortified with heavy cream. ![]() “Everyone needs to know how to make a slurry,” she says. She starts by whisking cornstarch, milk, and eggs into a slurry, an old-school technique that allows the pudding to quickly take on a smooth, thick texture. Her version has all the nostalgic notes of a child’s snack, dressed up with an adult’s sensibility. “A butterscotch pudding is my favorite thing in the world,” she says. It’s also an ode to the power of simple desserts like buttermilk pie, spiced peaches, and cold, smooth pudding.ĭonovan made her name putting a modern exclamation point on classic Southern desserts at such culinary heavy hitters as City House and later Husk in Nashville, where she perfected a way to enhance her preferred pudding flavor. The book tells the story of the pastry chef’s wild and lovely life, in which she managed to get out of an abusive relationship, build a cooking career from raw talent and sweat, and give voice to women facing sexism in professional kitchens. They even make a cameo in her memoir, Our Lady of Perpetual Hunger, which came out in August. ![]() The love affair began in childhood with old-fashioned lunch box pudding cups-the kind that used to come in pop-top cans before migrating to plastic in the 1980s. There are few things Lisa Donovan loves more than a pudding cup. ![]()
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